Perfume bottles – Frequently Asked Questions

perfume bottle from above

What are the different types of glass for perfume bottles ? Soda lime glass Perfume bottles made of soda lime glass consist of sand (silica), soda ash and limestone. This is the most inexpensive type of glass which is clear, durable, but breakable. It is mostly used for perfume bottles and packaging for food. Borosilicate glass This type of glass is made up of sand (silica) and boron trioxide. Borosilicate glass can be very thin which mades it ideal for test tubes and small perfume bottle vials. People often use borosilicate glass  for laboratory glass and pyrex cookware.  Crystal glass (lead or lead free) We make crystal glass from silica (sand) and lead oxide (or barium or zinc for lead free alternatives). This type of glass has a higher refractive index which means that light can travel and bend more within it. This makes the glass appear more beautiful. Opal Glass Opal glass is soda lime glass with added fluorides or phosphates. It has an opaque or translucent milky white look and cosmetics products often use this type of glass. How do I judge the quality of glass? For soda lime or flint glass bottles there are several ways to judge the quality of a bottle: The colour of the glass should be highly transparent, not green or grey There should be no air bubbles in the glass The surface of the glass should be smooth without bumps or scratches The distribution of the glass on the base of the bottle should be even, not like a ski slope! The walls of the glass should have even distribution, not wobbly walls with uneven thickness You should always check that the weight and volume of a glass bottle is consistent across the production moulds used Which perfume bottle shapes are more difficult to manufacture Generally speaking, cylinder and curved edge bottles are easier to manufacture. Also bottles which are not so heavy, as heavy bottomed bottles bring extra manufacturing problems. When there are detailed patterns on bottles we can experience problems with manufacture. Additionally, bottles with very sharp 90 degree edges are also more difficult to manufacture. What is a normal order quantity for a perfume bottle? We base a production run of glass on the total amount of glass available to dispense. Therefore if a bottle is a lower weight and volume, the minimum production run will be higher. For heavy weight bottles the minimum production run can be only ten or twenty thousand pieces. But a thirty millilitre bottle will generally have a minimum order quantity of fifty thousand pieces. How to ensure consistent weight and size of perfume bottles When we manufacture perfumes we use multiple production moulds. There may be ten or twenty replica moulds available. This is to speed up production and to avoid wearing out one mould too quickly. Each mould will have a number on them which will appear on the base of the glass. Because of this, you can see which mould the manufacturer produced the glass bottle from. It is important to inspect bottles from all of the moulds – to gather samples from all numbers of mould. If you do this, then you can check the weight and dimensions of the production and calculate all variations. Small variations can affect the way parts such as spray pumps and caps fit on the bottle. Some moulds may get worn out and need polishing or replacement. You need to know which number mould is the problem. Why is the production of glass so long? Glass production is not an easy process. A typical factory will manufacture many different weights of glass and must schedule the production according to weight. Sometimes you may be unlucky, as the weight that you need for your bottle is not so common. If this is the case, it can take time to get the glass weight you need again. What is better – Europe, Indian or Chinese glass? Europe undoubtedly has the most advanced technology for perfume glass and can achieve glass with smooth surface finish and even distribution of glass on the base. Piramal glass in India can also achieve a high quality glass, but at a lower price than Europe. However, they are more limited on special shapes and textures and are not able to make the same complexity of design as Europe. China factories have a wide range of quality, some can achieve close to the same level as Europe. There is an added advantage in China that some suppliers may also polish bottles by hand. This gives a crystal glass appearance to the glass which is very appealing. This would be prohibitively expensive to do in Europe. What are the pros and cons of buying perfume bottles from different locations?. Indian glass from Piramal is good quality and a good price Piramal cannot make such complex designs as Europer or some China factories The lead-time is long from Piramal nowadays, particularly since they were taken over by the Blackstone Group China glass can be high quality and clarity from some suppliers The price is generally good compared to Europe glass Mould fees are much lower than in Europe Hand polishing and engraving is available at a lower price Technical expertise is higher in Europe The cost per item is much higher The cost of each new mould is high Minimum production runs are higher also Perfume bottle decoration options There are many ways to decorate a perfume bottle:  Lacquer – lacquer can be matte, shiny, transparent or opaque, pearl or metallic Cover with fabric or other material. Brands such as John Varvatos have decorated bottles beautifully with this method Screen printing – this can be a very effective way to decorate, but it it works better for bigger elements which do not need fine lines or multiple colours Hot foil can be applied to a bottle to give a luxurious metallic decoration. Decal decoration – this is  a complex design which factories apply […]

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How to Design a Perfume

various ingredient for perfumery

The Ultimate Perfume Creation Guide Are you in the process of designing your own new perfume? Or maybe looking to brush up on your perfume design skills ? Our ultimate guide on how to design a perfume will cover the main areas of perfume selection, formulation, packaging design, filling and marketing your perfume. Perfume Ingredients Perfume ingredients fall into two categories: natural and synthetic. Natural ingredients can vary with each harvest. This means that fragrances with a high percentage of natural essences may vary from batch to batch. These natural extracts come from plants, spices, barks, grasses, mosses, and even animal-derived sources. Their uniqueness and complexity make them highly valued in perfumery, offering depth and richness which synthetic alternatives cannot  fully replicate. How to design a perfume : Choosing between Synthetic or Natural ingredients Should you use Synthetic or Natural Ingredients in Perfume Design? Let’s dive in to some key points: Firstly, it is a common misunderstanding that synthetic ingredients are always cheaper than natural ones – this in fact is not always the case. Some synthetic ingredients are highly sophisticated and can be just as expensive as natural extracts. In fact, synthetics allow perfumers to create unique scent profiles that closely mimic natural aromas. They also offer a more sustainable and eco-friendly alternative. They reduce the reliance on rare or endangered natural resources in fragrance production. Without synthetics, perfume houses could not create such a wide range of quality perfume nowadays. See the explanation of the importance of synthetics  ingredients here. Natural perfume ingredients – citrus and floral notes Many people say that synthetic ingredients are ‘endocrine disruptors’. IFRA – the International Fragrance Association – strictly regulates the quantity of the allergenic ingredients which can be used in each formulation. An allergen is a chemical which has been proven to cause an irritation when applied to the skin. It tests ingredients and sets guidelines on the quantity of certain ingredients allowed in a formula. You must write all allergens on the outer packaging of perfumes in most regulated countries. Essential oils (natural perfumes) can also cause allergic reactions. IFRA is currently considering adding some essential oils to the list of known allergens. Your perfume supplier can provide an allergen list for the fragrances you select. How to design a perfume – selecting the right formulation When we plan how to design a perfume what is better – a perfume formulation with or without alcohol? In ancient times people made perfumes without alcohol using waxes or oils to hold the perfume. Nowadays we mostly make perfumes with a combination of distilled water, ethanol alcohol and perfume oil. The decision of which formulation depends on the market you operate in and your target audience. In countries with a predominantly muslim population,  non-alcoholic perfume may perform better. You can also use alternative carriers such as water, oil, wax or resin  to dilute and mix the perfume oils. In markets where alcoholic perfumes have been traditionally used, changing consumer behaviour can be challenging. Formulations with alcohol allow the top notes of a perfume to open up quickly, which  can create a performance challenge for non alcoholic perfumes. Consumers often base their buying decisions on the first impression, preferring powerful or strong top notes. Fragrance concentration How much perfume should I put in my formulation? Fragrance concentration should align with market preferences . For example,  Saudi Arabia favours a very high concentration of up to 25 or 30% fragrance oil, while the UK market usually prefers a lower concentration of maximum 15% fragrance. In markets unaccustomed to heavy fragrances, a very high concentration can be irritating. Pricing of the oil will also influence how much you add. In high-end fragrances, increasing  fragrance oil by just one or two percent will significantly impact the product cost. How much fragrance oil does my perfume contain? Eau fraiche has 3% or less fragrance oil. Eau de cologne has 2 to 5% fragrance oil. Eau de toilette contains 10% usually. Eau de parfum has 8 to 15% fragrance oil. Soie de parfum has 15 to 18% fragrance oil. Parfum has between 15 to 30% fragrance oil. How to design a perfume and fragrance notes A perfume will undergo different phases after being sprayed onto your skin.  Most perfumes consists of different ‘notes’ which open up at different times after application. Each phase will last for different lengths of time. TOP NOTES are the first notes which give a burst of smell right after spraying the perfume and typically last for 10-15 minutes. These notes are usually more volatile and they are often citrus, fruity or floral. MIDDLE NOTES are also called heart notes and these take 15 to 30 minutes to fully develop on the skin. They usually contain florals and aromatic plant notes and are the notes by which the fragrance is classified. BASE NOTES last the longest and help to slow down the evaporation of the more volatile molecules. Typical ingredients for a base note are woody, vanilla, musk, cedar and sandalwood. A perfume which does not change from initial spray to its final dry down is a linear perfume.  It does not contain top, middle or base notes. The most popular linear fragrance at the moment is Baccarat rouge by Francis Kurkidjan. There is a recognised classification system of perfumes which was developed by Michael Edwards. The main types are floral/ amber/ Woody and fresh with sub classifications for each type. Check out the Michael Edwards fragrance wheel online and our other blog, Fragrance Notes Explained, if you wish to know more. Perfume Market Knowledge Understanding the dynamics of the wholesale and retail trade for perfumery in your country is essential. A detailed retail survey of the market place gives you an idea of market size and what is selling. It is vitally important to understand the wholesale and retail margins. From this you can calculate the price to sell your product in the market in order to make a profit. To dive deeper […]

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My Internship at Anisha International

internships

The internship of Hareem, a graphic design intern studying at Sheffield Hallam University. When I first started looking for an internship 5 months ago, I did not know what to expect. Initially I asked  for advice from my professors and my family, searching online for design-related agencies. Also I was hoping to come across an agency where I could learn and grow in two areas: publication and packaging. I would like to tell you about things that I learned as a graphic design intern at Anisha International. Hareem celebrating passing her exams with first class honours at Anisha offices Real life skills learnt during internship It’s a demanding job At Anisha, the learning scope during the internship was huge, as there wasn’t a moment where I felt like the time was being wasted. I contributed to work areas like packaging design for fragrances, production works and brainstorming. Often I found creative solutions with the senior team members and did market research.  I brushed off my presentation skills and subsequently used various high level designing softwares which Anisha uses. There’s plenty to learn What type of work did I do? Designing posters and books, seemed like the perfect job for me, as I did that a lot at university. However, the first project I had during my internship was designing a box for a fragrance. As I had never done that before, I had to ask for advice, watch, learn, and then ask again. Nevertheless,  it was perfectly normal and my co-workers were very supportive. During my internship I designed packaging, decorated bottles, made production artwork, billboards, presentations, PSD mockups for clients later I evaluated market research. The team at Anisha is highly skilled, professional and always ready to counsel.  I learned how to work in a dynamic workplace pressure, also how to efficiently deliver results to the clientele. What was the variety of work and learning scope? Learning Never Stops Graphic design, branding, design thinking — everything changes so quickly that you must continually learn new skills. In reality, even experienced designers must learn. New tools and technologies arrive every day and you must keep an open mind, concurrently experiment and embrace the new. The best approach for any internship is to watch and learn and ask questions. Additionally  your supervisor may learn from you as much as you learn from them. We hope you enjoyed this overview of how a real internship works at Anisha International. Please, click on this link for internship opportunities and please attach your CV and portfolio. For a better understanding of the skillset required as a packaging designer please check out the check list of skills here. […]

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15 Luxury Middle Eastern perfumes

What are the noteworthy arabic perfumes?

Which are the noteworthy luxury Middle Eastern Perfumes? The per capita sales of  luxury Middle Eastern perfumes has always been big and it is still growing.. Euromonitor predicts MENA region market growth from 5.7 billion USD in 2018 to 8.5 billion USD by 2021. Strong demand in luxury perfumery in this region has encouraged many perfumery companies to create new interesting perfume concepts. There are many more perfume houses targeting the Middle East market with oriental creations who are manufacturing abroad. Such as the House of Oud, Amouroud, Xerjoff, Sospiro, Memo, Nejma, Montale, and Frederick Malle, to mention but a few. Due to current consumption rates, the Middle Eastern perfume market continues to be a highly attractive proposition. In this blog post we focus only on the local oriental brands born and bred in the Middle East. Ahjaar – UAE Paris Gallery created this perfume to sell exclusively in their luxury perfume retail chain. Its simplistic yet luxurious packaging approach revives memories of Guerlain’s Encens Mythique d’orient. Amouage – Oman Amouage is a long standing perfume house with the backing of the Omani royal family. The company has gone from strength to strength to place its brands in the most luxurious exclusive points of sale the world over over the last twenty years. At the early part of the 2000s Amouage was still very much a regional player with a very oriental approach in packaging and presentation. I recall buying Cristal Gold by Amouage in the late 1990s. Despite the beauty and opulence of the old style packaging, it is doubtful that Amouage would have achieved such wide appeal if it had not changed later to a simpler ‘East meets West’ style of packaging and presentation.   Amouage Silver Cristal – also available in gold colour. The brand has managed to reinvent itself as a sleek luxury brand with sophistication and wide appeal. This is largely thanks to the expertise of Christopher Chong who was their in-house marketing expert until 2019. Each new range has a clear story behind it and the fragrances have mostly oriental notes. Yet  despite this they are very popular the world over. Amouage has achieved great success from Russia to Australia, a success emulated by many. Amna al Habtoor, UAE resident from a prominent local family, has recently launched Arcadia perfumes by Amna. The theme of their perfumes is oriental nostalgia and each perfume comes with a booklet explaining the story behind it. More niche luxury Middle Eastern perfumes A creation of Assim al Qassim, a nostalgic approach to niche oriental perfumery, combining old trusted ingredients with some unexpected notes such as mango. The inspiration of the new collection WATAN (nation) is endless love. Designer Shaik – Bahrain The brand Chic Shaikh brand is only widely available in the Middle East region and some limited distribution in other countries. It has created truly innovative perfume packaging, complete with perfume bottle refill stations at certain point of sale. The brand is remarkable, as the bottles are refillable and the packaging can be sent away for refurbishment. Ghawali – UAE Chalhoub group  launched this relatively new niche brand  together with a range of body care and perfumes. They distribute these  products mostly in their own bespoke retail outlets located in areas heavily frequented by local Arabs. These are true Middle Eastern perfumes using combinations of ingredients popular in the region to create unisex creations. Ghawali’s  simple perfume packaging is elegant and understated. Kayali – UAE Kayali perfume is a recent entrant to the Middle East perfume market. Launched by the Kattan sisters Dubai based cosmetics company Huda Beauty, Kayali launched exclusively in Sephora retail outlets. The concept centres around perfume layering principles, you need more than one to build up your fragrance and match your mood. The collection of fragrances comprises perfumes such as vanilla, white flowers, musk and citrus. Khaltat blends of Love – UAE This is a niche luxury perfume brand sold mainly in private luxury kiosks in the most popular shopping malls. It is the creation of the Mohamed Hilal group. Hind al Oud, the Hilal Group has now entered the luxury spray niche perfume market.  This brand will also be on sale in the new luxury concept stores HOB where new colour cosmetics ranges will also be available. Majan Perfumes – Oman The perfume packaging design is similar to The Fragrance Kitchen, as all perfumes are in similar round tall bottle. However, these perfume bottles are more pretty and oriental than the Fragrance Kitchen design. Odict – Kuwait Odict is a collaboration between two friends of Saudi and Kuwaiti descent. Inspiration comes from typical Middle Eastern ingredients such as oud, frankincense, amber and saffron. They have contemporary notes such as fresh smelling bergamot, orange blossom and grapefruit. The perfume packaging is minamalistic and ultra modern. Odict has used the region’s heritage of pearl diving as an inspiration for its brand imagery. Oman Luxury – Oman A relatively new entrant into  luxury Middle Eastern perfumes which Rasasi developed in collaboration with french perfumers and Hamid Merati- Kashani from Firmenich. The old perfume bottle design was a square tall bottle, but the new bottle is more round and the cap is now quite similar to the one made by Ghawali. Rasasi – UAE Rasasi have been specialising in mass market high quality products until the last few years when they launched products such as Boruzz oud collection and La Yuqawam. Now that the luxury Middle Eastern perfume market has grown and become more attractive, they have added some very attractive luxury perfumes to their product lines. The Fragrance Kitchen – Kuwait The Fragrance Kitchen has a funky, modern perfume packaging design, it is the brainchild of the Emir of Kuwait Sheik Majed al Sabeh. The perfumes are largely unisex and draw on middle eastern themes and use traditional ingredients which are unique to Middle Eastern perfumery. This niche perfume brand is enjoying success overseas in urban cosmopolitan areas such as London and New York. […]

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