What is a Niche perfume?
What do we think about the future for niche perfumery?
First let’s clarify – what is ‘niche’ or ‘selective’ perfumery? A niche perfume is any perfume sold in limited distribution. According to Parfumplus magazine every niche perfume must contain compelling storytelling combined and an attractive design.
In the past niche perfumes were more experimental perfumes which did not have a wide appeal. They played with new concepts and ingredients and created masterpieces or disasters. Many of these could never be sold in the more mass designer fragrance arena. The segment harked back to the times when mass market perfumery was driving the majority of sales. Perfumery was an artisan profession with a high degree of expertise. Niche perfumery was an area where perfumers could really let their imagination run free and not be bound by commercial restrictions. Consequently, niche perfumes have always had a much higher retail value, maybe 150 USD and above per bottle. This reflects the higher cost of the essential oils inside them.
The future of niche perfumery and its popularity
The niche perfumery sector has grown exponentially over the past five years, largely due to new entrants to the area. At the Excense 2022 exhibition over 280 brands showcased their brands – more than double the number in 2018 when there were only 112 brands. It seems everyone wants a piece of the niche action!
So why might people lose trust in niche brands? Why do we think the future of niche perfumery is on shaky ground?
For the following reasons:
- Investment companies and multinational groups have purchased many of the most original popular niche brands over the past few years. Such as Frederic Malle, L’artisan Parfumeur, Dyptique, and Kilian, amongst others.
- Mainstream designer brands have also launched their own range of selective perfumery, focusing on certain ingredients.
- The sheer number of entrants to the niche arena has grown. Many of them are chasing the financial rewards rather than the creative process and the ability to innovate. Therefore this has led to an oversaturated market filled with uninspiring fragrances.
- Too many of the brands just follow the old formula of perfume library. They say “ok, lets add a rose, an oud, a sandal wood, a floral, a citrus fragrance and maybe a gourmand’. According to them, then your job is done. With little differentiation everything feels repetitive, lacking the . magical story or storytelling that once set them apart.
The future of Niche perfumery
Many mainstream companies seem to only understand the niche brand as a luxury high priced perfume. But they fail to understand the creative allure of the niche brand, the inspirations and innovative necessity of it. It should be like a piece of art created for the sheer beauty or expression of an idea.
If the ‘niche’ market continues to grow at this pace, then it is likely to be a victim of its own success, the sheer growth of niche perfumery will cause its demise. Because end consumers will no longer be able to differentiate between the main designer houses and the niche brands. There will not be enough of the new and exciting and avant garde left in niche to draw the consumer into this world and to justify the high price of its offerings. Also if the distribution is more widespread, the consumer will become confused.
Niche or selective perfumery will always have a place amongst true perfume afficionados. But this over-commercialisation of the sector may lead to some consumers moving away from it. Time will certainly tell us what lies in the future for niche perfumery.
Why don’t you try reading more about the design of niche perfumery in our article ‘The Niche bandwagon’?