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How online perfume sales affect retail in the Middle East

Smelling Perfume in a retail store

Do we know how online perfume sales affect retail in the Middle East? In the Middle East we have some really impressive perfume retail stores. We are spoilt for choice by having access to all the world’s perfume brands in some beautiful locations. The Middle East is well known for its love of perfumes and heavy consumption and consequently every brand wants to be represented here. Big international retail stores such as Galeries Lafayette and Bloomingdales have a presence, as well as Sephora and Harvey Nichols. Paris Gallery, the local luxury chain, is also represented in all Middle Eastern key markets. Boutique niche brands also have their own stores in many of our flagship malls. Unfortunately the overheads of running a retail store in the Middle East are extremely high. The combination of high retail rents, plus ‘hidden taxes’ for the various government approvals required or even mall approvals make it a very expensive place to operate. People often buy well known designer perfumes online to save money or time. The same perfumes can be up to double the price if you buy them in your local mall, so it can be a huge saving and also extremely convenient to have something delivered right to your home. It’s also an easy way to get hold of hard to find products which might not be stocked everywhere. Frequently we see people in the region who buy perfume online from online sites posting on forums in facebook to ask the advice of others whether it’s safe to buy online. if the goods are really genuine and what’s the catch for the lower prices.  The truth is that we don’t always know for sure what we are buying online, if it is a very good fake from Turkey or China or if it is just a good bargain. The fake copying companies are now so good at copying that one might not ever know its a fake unless the purchaser knows the perfume character intimately and notices that it performs differently to the original. The perfume essence will have undergone a GC match and tweaking by the perfumer to ensure it matches the original as closely as possible. And great efforts go into ensuring that the packaging is identical. The biggest online retailers often do not warehouse the majority of the items they sell on their portal, so they are not able to physically check the item or check its provenance by means of purchase receipts. Only the ones which are fulfilled by the big online sites have this guarantee. So how is online and in store business for perfumes developing in the Middle East? In 2017 the perfume market in the United Arab Emirates alone was worth $403 million in 2017 and is estimated to grow by 9% compound growth year on year to 2023 to $685 million by 2023 (IMARC  group report). This trend is repeated in other Middle Eastern countries. Middle East consumers are increasingly buying perfumes online, year on year online sales are growing in most categories and last year in the UAE online sales accounted for 10% of all sales.  This is growing fast year on year. Look how this compares to the figures shown in the Bain from 2014 below . But lack of trust could alter things  –  if consumers became more aware of the lack of authenticity checks by these sites, it could slow down growth. Bettermethods of guaranteeing authenticity should be implemented in order to maintain trust levels if this sector is to grow significantly. What about the future for retail stores if online business continues to grow?  There will always be a demand for retail stores where you can go and try a perfume and see how it smells, online stores can never provide this luxury. But will people buy it from that outlet after trialling it, will they just go and buy it online afterwards at a lower cost?  How can retail stores encourage more purchase in store?  There are a few main factors here I believe which can influence this :  Better client service and understanding of client needs in store. Most staff in perfumery retailers do not have a good understanding of perfume and cannot help the clients effectively to select fragrances. Sephora has tried to address this issue through the introduction of the Fragrance IQ machine in some of their stores, but it doesn’t make up for a lack of well trained and knowledgeable sales staff. I have heard from many people in this region stories of being chased around the big luxury perfume stores store by over zealous staff who are constantly spraying the client with irrelevant new perfumes with ‘try this’ and ‘try that’. Many of us are actively discouraged from entering those stores due to this frequent occurrence. Some clients need a bit of time to browse and collect their thoughts about their needs before discussing their needs with a salesperson. More promotions and offers to entice trial/ repeat purchase. Better loyalty schemes to keep clients loyal to the store. Most of the big stores have loyalty cards to collect data on consumers which allow the collection of precious consumer purchasing behavior. However, there is very little customer reward for shopping frequently at the same store and signing up to these loyalty schemes. More positive experience in store. More displays to make the essence of the brand more understandable. Merchandising and display in store which makes it easier to find the perfume you need. A more experiential approach to perfumes.  If the experience is more positive and creative and gives a better understanding of the perfume, people will not mind paying more compared to online. More fun and play and creativity is required instead of rows of displays of perfumes displayed in store according to the designer brand name. The use of Artificial Intelligence and other technology could help to bring brands alive and make the experience more immersive. If some stores were set up […]

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Which perfume brands are environmentally friendly?

perfume refill bar by Thierry Mugler

The threat of global warming has meant that many of us are rethinking the way we shop and what we buy. However, for cosmetics and perfumery brands how feasible is it to recycle perfume packaging? Which perfume brands are environmentally friendly? Most perfume sets are a combination of materials : glass, plastic, aluminum, zinc alloy or wood which makes it difficult to recycle packaging.  Nearly all perfume bottles sold have crimp pumps on them which has made it impossible in the past to refill them. So which companies currently offer refill at home options for bottles? Eden Perfumes in the UK offer a refill option where you post the empty bottle back to their factory to be refilled and then sent back out to you. So is there a better alternative to refill packaging? Unfortunately refill packaging also requires additional packaging – new bottles, boxes and closures. So the most environmentally friendly option is the fragrance refill bar. Thierry Mugler has dispensers in store where consumers can refill their perfume bottles at a lower cost. Chic Shaik in the Middle East has had perfumery refill bars in its larger distribution outlets since their launch and offer a lifetime refill service for their bottles. They also will do refurbishment of their beautiful bottles (at a cost) to ensure that they last a lifetime. Other big brands have limited refill stations in select outlets and cities, largely in Europe. Such as Guerlain in their flagship store in Paris, Roja Dove offers a refill option in Harrods using Daum crystal dispensers. Le Labo offers refilling in France primarily and selected European outlets. Caron offers a refill station at Fortnum and Mason in London. In the past only bottles with removable screw pumps could be refilled. But now technology from French company Techniplast allows even bottles where you cannot remove the pump to be refilled. Hopefully this is the way forward and more companies will start to buy into this new technology to allow more recycling of bottles in the future. However, this requires not only investment from brand owners, but also cooperation from retail outlets. Until there is more pressure from consumers or penalties imposed by governments to encourage more recycling, this approach is unlikely to become available in your local perfume retail outlet. Probably pressure from younger consumers will have an effect on brands as time goes on so that more perfume brands are environmentally friendly. Let us hope for the sake of the planet that this time comes sooner rather than later. If you enjoyed this article, why not read the following article about further perfume packaging trends: https://anisha.agency/10-useful-hints-and-trends-for-your-new-perfume-brands/ […]

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How to find your perfect fragrance

it is important to smell a fragrance before buying it

When I was growing up in the early 80s fragrance didn’t interest me at all. That was because there was a real dearth of fragrances suited to a younger palate. My earliest recollections of perfumes in the UK were my grandma’s favorite ‘Tramp’ and ‘Charlie’ or Yardley lily of the Valley and for special occasions Chanel No 5. At that time fragrances were either of the ‘knock your socks off’ variety – too strong for a developing young woman-  or a very floral bland one dimensional powdery floral offering which seemed too old fashioned.   During the mid 80s to 90s things changed and the perfume industry saw big launches of many mass market designer perfumes such as Tresor, Paris, Coco Chanel and Poison. TV adverts with glamorous lifestyle  images started to air on our TV channels. In the 90s designer perfumes became a dominant feature of our beauty stores offering a wide array of perfume options. Nowadays hundreds of new perfumes are launched every year, making it confusing to know what to buy and what to pay attention to. Nowadays I know the type of fragrances I will be comfortable with and make me feel good. This is largely thanks to the more prolific use of vanilla and gourmand notes in more recent fragrance creations, there is an element of this in most of the fragrances I now buy. But with so many new offerings to choose from, it can be very confusing nowadays for many people to choose that special perfume which reflects their mood and personality, what are the common ingredients which make the fragrance fit well with them. How to solve this ever more complicated riddle ? The Do’s and Dont’s of selecting a fragrance Don’t be pushed into buying the latest designer must have. Most of the big stores are on a drive to push the latest designer launches and whilst the latest perfume may be lovely on some people, it most definately won’t be a good fit for everyone. Don’t be pushed into buying the new item which the sales people are spritzing all over the store. Think about your memories and what made you happy in your childhood. Did you love vanilla deserts or apple pie? Did you love the strong cigar smell of your father? Or do you have strong memories of lemon groves on holiday in Italy, the smell of freshly cut grass or seaside smells at your nearest beach? Think about which fragrances you already like and have worn, if any. What is it that you like about them? Is it the initial hit of fragrance when you spray it? (top notes) or the fragrance when the initial hit is gone? (middle note) or the scent remaining on your skin after the fragrance has died down ?(base note). When you have identified which smells make you feel happy, warm, relaxed, comfortable, then you can start to research fragrances which may contain these notes. Fragrantica is a great website for researching fragrance notes. Don’t use the smelling strips in store as the only way of selecting the fragrance. Spray it on your body too. Different people react differently with fragrances. This is due to the food we eat and the ph balance of your skin. What smells great on one person might react badly to your skin and smell terrible.  Walk about the store after spraying on your body and let the fragrance settle before deciding to buy. Don’t settle for the fragrances others have bought for you. They probably won’t suit you unless they have taken cues from what you already are known to wear and love. Learn from your mistakes. Maybe the last fragrance you bought gives you a headache when you wear it for a long time. So look at the dominant middle notes of the fragrance and avoid making the same mistake in your next selection. Finding the right fragrance can be a matter of trial and error and you should not be afraid to experiment and make mistakes. Only by going through this process can you really get to that stage of finding perfumes you truly adore. Until you really find something you love, see if you can buy your new perfume in a smaller trial version size. Try out niche perfumes. Usually the staff are trained to give more information about the ingredients in the perfume and the types of fragrances on sale. You will probably gain more perfume knowledge in a niche stockist than approaching a typical designer brand retail store. […]

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How are new perfumes made?

how a perfume is made

How are new perfumes made? What are the stages in the process? Establish the target market Establish the concept Sketch the concept Make 3D model of the bottle Make 3D printing mock up Final animation render presentation to show how it looks Make moulds ready for plastics and bottle Make pre production samples If you found this interesting, you may enjoy our article about the new product development process and what comes first: https://anisha.agency/what-comes-first-perfume-or-packaging/ […]

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Adventures in team building

Team building in Abu Dhabi canoeing

A fun afternoon of kayaking for Team Anisha. Getting stuck in the mangroves when we went the wrong way was only part of the fun! Finding solutions to problems and supporting one another helped to make this a fun day out and the latest in a great series of adventures in team building . The tide is quite low at certain times of the day in the Abu Dhabi mangroves, so you need to plan your route through the mangroves carefully. The team has to support each other to navigate a safe way out before it gets dark in case you go the wrong way. For more examples of adventures in team building please check out our hotel games and cooking weekend : https://anisha.agency/team-building-anisha-style/ […]

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Stiff competition for china

mould-making in china

If we compare the cost of goods in China to other developing countries we can see that China is already less competitive for some products. For example we can buy paper boxes and liners for a cheaper price in India due to the low value of the Rupee, this and the low cost of labour in the country has continued to keep India competitive for many hand made items. Unfortunately until India is able to build the sort of infrastructure and business ethics which China has, then India will not be able to fully emulate the Chinese economic superstar.  However, Indonesia has a young and educated workforce with low wages and is also trying to steal some of the economic glory. Vietnam likewise is a good alternative for hand manufactured items which are very competitive due to its lower wage costs. Over the last year China factories have faced numerous challenges which have seriously affected their ability to compete against packaging suppliers from other countries. A combination of challenges have made life interesting: First of all environmental restrictions placed on factories by the government. Due to China’s commitment to the Paris Agreement in order to tackle climate change, very strict new laws have been implemented to ensure that pollution as a by product of manufacture is greatly reduced.   – Glass bottle factories have been forced to change to gas fired furnaces instead of coal, this has meant huge infrastructure costs in factories to rapidly build new furnaces.  The frosting of glass bottles is now more than double the cost of a few years ago-  many glass factories have stopped doing this process themselves, as the effluent from the excess acid must now be disposed of carefully.   –  Anodizing factories for metal products are also facing similar problems, no more chance to keep cost down by dumping the waste in illegal sites.   –  Paper is also much higher in price due to more strict deforestation policies and also stricter rules on processing. The Renminbi had been steadily creeping up in value this year until the central bank intervened making China goods a little more expensive than earlier, even without any other influences.  This has meant that many suppliers in China have been quoting in RMB (instead of USD which is the norm) to avoid taking a loss in profit on currency differences. Wages in the developed Eastern area of china close to the main shipping routes have increased a lot over the past few years. In the past there was no problem recruiting new staff after the New Year holidays each year. But increasingly factories either have to increase salaries a lot to attract staff from other parts of China or have to introduce more automation in the factories to reduce labour.  According to a Forbes report of June 2017 China average salaries in Shanghai and Shenzhen are already as high as salaries in Croatia, Romania and Bulgaria. The oil prices have greatly increased over the past year worldwide. This has affected the cost of plastic for all of us, wherever we buy from. China has been experiencing difficulties in sourcing some plastics such as surlyn which are in short supply. Recently prices have shot up by 50% with some suppliers who are struggling to get stocks of materials. The local market in China has really taken off a lot with many young Chinese consumers enjoying local cosmetics products. This has put a lot of pressure on many factories who also make glass bottles and plastic/aluminium caps for perfumes. The volumes of local china cosmetics brands are huge and the suppliers command a higher price for local sales than for exports, so they prefer to sell to local factories. If the cost is increasing so much in China, then why are people still buying there? 1. First of all reliability factor. Most China suppliers keep their promises and the local business and government infrastructure supports them, allowing them to be more reliable. 2. Speed of response. China suppliers work very hard and have an ‘open all hours’ approach to business. If you deal with a supplier in Western markets then working hours are not so flexible, you cannot get quick replies for quotes, especially not out of normal work hours. 3. Great ability in tooling and development. Whilst China is not the greatest nation for creativity, it certainly is very good at implementing others’ ideas at low cost. A new mould for injection moulding or metal casting can be developed relatively quickly and at much lower cost in China than in Europe. If we compare the cost of a mould fee for injection mould in Europe at around 20,000 Euros per mould, the cost for similar can be between $1500 to maximum $8,000 for the most expensive Rolls Royce mould in China. So great savings can be made in product development. 4. Trust. ‘Better the devil you know’. It takes a lot of time to build up trust with new suppliers. Switching to new suppliers is not easy, there are often fitment and quality problems or delays. Often it is better to solve your differences with the existing supplier than to change supplier. 5. If you already have moulds developed with a particular supplier it is a huge investment to move them over to new suppliers. 6. Often factories who buy a lot from China will ship many goods from various suppliers in one container. Its expensive to ship half empty containers from Vietnam to Europe. You should have enough suppliers or enough volume with that new supplier to ensure that shipping costs do not add more cost than staying with your old supplier. In short, China is still a major player and will continue to be a major player for some time. But the tide is turning, it may not keep its dominance as the low cost supplier and have to reinvent itself to make itself relevant in the future economy. Maybe more innovation and less […]

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