The Ultimate Perfume Creation Guide
Are you in the process of designing your own new perfume? Or maybe looking to brush up on your perfume design skills ? Our ultimate guide on how to design a perfume will cover the main areas of perfume selection, formulation, packaging design, filling and marketing your perfume.
Perfume Ingredients
Perfume ingredients fall into two categories: natural and synthetic. Natural ingredients can vary with each harvest. This means that fragrances with a high percentage of natural essences may vary from batch to batch.
These natural extracts come from plants, spices, barks, grasses, mosses, and even animal-derived sources. Their uniqueness and complexity make them highly valued in perfumery, offering depth and richness which synthetic alternatives cannot fully replicate.
How to design a perfume : Choosing between Synthetic or Natural ingredients
Should you use Synthetic or Natural Ingredients in Perfume Design? Let’s dive in to some key points:
Firstly, it is a common misunderstanding that synthetic ingredients are always cheaper than natural ones – this in fact is not always the case. Some synthetic ingredients are highly sophisticated and can be just as expensive as natural extracts.
In fact, synthetics allow perfumers to create unique scent profiles that closely mimic natural aromas. They also offer a more sustainable and eco-friendly alternative. They reduce the reliance on rare or endangered natural resources in fragrance production. Without synthetics, perfume houses could not create such a wide range of quality perfume nowadays. See the explanation of the importance of synthetics ingredients here.
Many people say that synthetic ingredients are ‘endocrine disruptors’. IFRA – the International Fragrance Association – strictly regulates the quantity of the allergenic ingredients which can be used in each formulation. An allergen is a chemical which has been proven to cause an irritation when applied to the skin. It tests ingredients and sets guidelines on the quantity of certain ingredients allowed in a formula. You must write all allergens on the outer packaging of perfumes in most regulated countries. Essential oils (natural perfumes) can also cause allergic reactions. IFRA is currently considering adding some essential oils to the list of known allergens. Your perfume supplier can provide an allergen list for the fragrances you select.
How to design a perfume - selecting the right formulation
When we plan how to design a perfume what is better – a perfume formulation with or without alcohol? In ancient times people made perfumes without alcohol using waxes or oils to hold the perfume. Nowadays we mostly make perfumes with a combination of distilled water, ethanol alcohol and perfume oil.
The decision of which formulation depends on the market you operate in and your target audience. In countries with a predominantly muslim population, non-alcoholic perfume may perform better. You can also use alternative carriers such as water, oil, wax or resin to dilute and mix the perfume oils. In markets where alcoholic perfumes have been traditionally used, changing consumer behaviour can be challenging.
Formulations with alcohol allow the top notes of a perfume to open up quickly, which can create a performance challenge for non alcoholic perfumes. Consumers often base their buying decisions on the first impression, preferring powerful or strong top notes.
Fragrance concentration
How much perfume should I put in my formulation?
Fragrance concentration should align with market preferences . For example, Saudi Arabia favours a very high concentration of up to 25 or 30% fragrance oil, while the UK market usually prefers a lower concentration of maximum 15% fragrance. In markets unaccustomed to heavy fragrances, a very high concentration can be irritating. Pricing of the oil will also influence how much you add. In high-end fragrances, increasing fragrance oil by just one or two percent will significantly impact the product cost.
How much fragrance oil does my perfume contain?
- Eau fraiche has 3% or less fragrance oil.
- Eau de cologne has 2 to 5% fragrance oil.
- Eau de toilette contains 10% usually.
- Eau de parfum has 8 to 15% fragrance oil.
- Soie de parfum has 15 to 18% fragrance oil.
- Parfum has between 15 to 30% fragrance oil.
How to design a perfume and fragrance notes
A perfume will undergo different phases after being sprayed onto your skin. Most perfumes consists of different ‘notes’ which open up at different times after application. Each phase will last for different lengths of time.
TOP NOTES
are the first notes which give a burst of smell right after spraying the perfume and typically last for 10-15 minutes. These notes are usually more volatile and they are often citrus, fruity or floral.
MIDDLE NOTES
are also called heart notes and these take 15 to 30 minutes to fully develop on the skin. They usually contain florals and aromatic plant notes and are the notes by which the fragrance is classified.
BASE NOTES
last the longest and help to slow down the evaporation of the more volatile molecules. Typical ingredients for a base note are woody, vanilla, musk, cedar and sandalwood.
A perfume which does not change from initial spray to its final dry down is a linear perfume. It does not contain top, middle or base notes. The most popular linear fragrance at the moment is Baccarat rouge by Francis Kurkidjan.
There is a recognised classification system of perfumes which was developed by Michael Edwards.
The main types are floral/ amber/ Woody and fresh with sub classifications for each type.
Check out the Michael Edwards fragrance wheel online and our other blog, Fragrance Notes Explained, if you wish to know more.
Perfume Market Knowledge
Understanding the dynamics of the wholesale and retail trade for perfumery in your country is essential. A detailed retail survey of the market place gives you an idea of market size and what is selling. It is vitally important to understand the wholesale and retail margins. From this you can calculate the price to sell your product in the market in order to make a profit. To dive deeper into perfume market knowledge, click here.
Consumer knowledge
A good description of your perfume will assist in selling it to buyers. But first you need to understand the market and what it needs. There is no point creating a concept which will not suit your market and target group.
It is important to study the preferences of your target market and understand their behaviour and ability to purchase. It is also essential to anticipate future trends.
In the words of Peter. F Drucker “The aim of Marketing is to know and understand the consumer so well the product or service fits him and sells itself”.
Anticipate the future
Conducting enough research will give you insights about how to stand apart from your competitors. In order to add value to the market you must offer a product which is easy to differentiate from other products already available.
Try to anticipate future demands which are still unfulfilled. Or think about developing a product to suit an area of the market where there is growing demand. Which areas of the market are growing or declining? What is the demographic of the population and how is it changing ? Which attitudes and lifestyle changes are happening to change the way your product is bought or used? Which gender are you targeting, if any, and which age group or country?
Should I lead or follow?
Will you lead or follow? Are you designing a perfume to stand out and create something new and different? Or do you want to follow the market, to create something with less risk?
Creating something new and different can involve more risk, but it also can provide a much higher reward. If you follow trends of other brands, then it will make it harder for your brand to stand out clearly against others. As a result you will have to work a lot harder to achieve any brand awareness. You may have to accept the ‘going rate’ for your product. Copycat brands cannot sell at a higher price than the current products already selling in the market.
Deciding the creative strategy is maybe one of the most difficult decisions when planning how to design a perfume.
Perfume Packaging design - an essential part of how to design a perfume
You can buy packaging materials in standard and custom made formats. Standard items are where somebody else has already paid to make a mould and may keep stocks available. This will apply to bottles, pumps and perfume caps. But a paper box will always need a custom design if you need to print on the box. It is not always possible to buy standard items from stock. However, if you use standard items, then you can avoid mould fees.
Custom or standard materials?
If you are launching a new product for the first time it may be difficult to commit to making custom made perfume bottles and caps. Custom items often require large minimum order quantities and the extra mould costs may be too high for your initial budget. It is best to discuss your total budget available with your packaging design team. They can advise you on the options. Our team at Anisha will look at your design goals and the market you want to operate in. Email us directly at info@anisha.agency if you need advice on your project. Our team will find creative and cost effective ways to achieve your goals. We have a wide selection of trusted suppliers who we have worked with on many projects. First decide the quality and price you need, then we will select the correct supplier for you.
Should I use standard packaging materials?
If you decide to use standard packaging materials, you can make them look special using clever packaging design techniques. However, please bear in mind that it is much easier for people to copy you if you use standard packaging materials.
If you prefer to customise your packaging, then you need to contact a specialist packaging design partner who can take you from conceptualisation to finished production.
This process can take several months, depending on how many new moulds are involved. Probably you should factor in 6 months from start to finish to allow for changes or revisions which may be required. Often the process requires trial and error to ensure perfection.
Testing the perfume packaging materials
Ensure the suitability of your packaging materials before going into production. Make mock ups of your boxes and paper liners. Get samples of your bottles, caps, pumps etc and see how everything fits together.
Ask your suppliers what tolerance or variances their materials have and how the items are tested. See if they can provide certification and testing of the materials in house or via external agencies. Some suppliers have their own laboratories and highly qualified quality control engineers.
Small changes to materials will affect the way a cap or bottle fits together. That is why it is important to study the drawings of all the materials and to get samples of everything before final production.
You can save a lot of money by organising to ship your fragrance oil by sea instead of by air freight. Having a partner like Anisha who knows how to coordinate and consolidate the goods as well as which documentation to arrange can be very helpful.
Ensure that your goods are palletised on fumigated pallets and shrink wrapped if you are planning to fill goods in Europe or USA.
Filling and manufacturing : The final steps in how to Design a Perfume
Choose the right filling partner to ensure that you achieve the correct manufacturing quality. Visit their site to see their machinery, hygiene and organisation. Ensure that they have the right machinery and quality control and inspection to ensure a consistent quality.
The perfume oils you supply must be stored in cool, dry conditions. You must allow enough time for filtering and maturation before filling. Often it isn’t a good idea to push your filling partner for a very low price on filling. This may result in corners being cut. After devoting so much time and money to the fragrance and packaging materials, does it make sense to spoil the quality by paying a few cents less per piece? Whilst we all want a fair deal, it does not make sense to bargain too hard.
Anisha can help you to find the right contract filling partner in China, the Middle East, Europe or USA.
Marketing your perfume design
Every year people launch thousands of new perfumes, so getting noticed is becoming more difficult. Any new brand must have a good presence on social media, as well as using traditional advertising methods. These tools allow you to engage with your consumer on a regular basis. It is important to make it clear to your consumer what your brand stands for.
Channels such as perfume Tik Tok and instagram (in some countries) are responsible for more and more sales year on year. Influencers on social media hold a lot of sway over certain groups of consumers. Younger consumers no longer trust traditional media, they are highly cynical. If you say you will do something then you must follow up with action. Empty words are not enough.
Adapting to younger consumers
Younger consumers prefer to spend money on experiences or on brands which are transparent and accountable. They are increasingly asking for sustainable and ethical products as well as increased options for personalisation. They want to feel like the brand is talking to them personally, not to a wide section of society. This is is where social media plays an important role. Think about introducing any of these points into your marketing strategy, if possible.
Final Thoughts : Mastering how to Design a perfume
We hope that you have found this Guide on how to Design a Perfume, a useful resource to help you to develop your own perfume. If you need further in depth advice, please get in touch with our team at : info@anisha.agency. We handle perfume design every day. We will make the process of creating your new perfume enjoyable and effortless.
For expert guidance, email us at info@anisha.agency. Whether you’re selecting ingredients, creating a formulation, designing packaging, or marketing your perfume, we have the expertise to bring your vision to life.
If you enjoyed this article please take a look at our article – same same but different. Here we explore what are the pros and cons of creating new products versus following the market. Or maybe you would like to learn more about the different design approaches you can apply in niche perfumery?